The advent of commercialism and imported goods has changed the look of many a traditional Trinidadian village. Large colourful brick houses replace the conventional wooden structures; supermarkets replace the old time parlours that sold home-made bread and snacks; and Japanese cars replace the once ingrained donkey carts on the roads.
While progress can be beneficial, it’s a happy surprise to come across an offbeat rustic village like Tortuga. The very name conjures up the image of a long forgotten community born when the Spaniards first arrived in the New World.
Tortuga, however, is the Spanish word for ‘turtle’; though disappointment awaits those in search of these tough creatures as they have long since departed the village, along too with the conquistadors for more feasible areas.
A long, bumpy ride on a twisting, curving road leads to the little village set in the Montserrat Hills which dominate central Trinidad. On the way you pass flourishing tropical plants scattered throughout unfenced private gardens, tall palms lining the roadside, and the occasional mongoose scampering across the street.
One of the country’s oldest Catholic Churches, Our Lady of Montserrat, is all that’s left to remind us of the village’s Spanish ancestors. Catholic relics, brought by the Spanish at some point during their 300 year residence on the island are delicately displayed for the hundreds of pilgrims who visit the church each year.
The church set in its high vantage point in the Central Range overlooks the village's most impressive feature - the panoramic view of undulating grassy hills, small banana fields, immortelle and teak trees, and old cocoa estates. Straight ahead, thick velvety green undergrowth slopes down into a misty valley. A little further on, the Gulf of Paria shimmers various shades of sapphire, enticing fishermen to try their luck in its clear waters. Looking south, the city of San Fernando peaks in the distance while the bright orange flame from an oil refinery contrasts drastically with the nearby forested hills.
Full of life and vivid earthly colours, Tortuga is a calm spot in the otherwise bustling island. Brightly coloured hummingbirds hover past the church into nearby rose bushes; dark corbeaux (vultures) circle high above forested plateaus searching for prey; and sprawling mango trees laden with sweet, juicy fruit provide a much needed canopy and refreshment for the weary visitor. Secluded high above in on its hilltop, Tortuga paints a pretty picture of a serene village almost untouched through the passing of the ages.
To visit Tortuga, hire a car or ask your hotel to provide you with a car and local driver to take you to this little village.
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